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And here you thought routers are the stuff of the modern workshop. They've been around much longer than the abNORMal kind has, but these kind ain't the 'lectrical kind. These kind are pushed or pulled, and are suited for smoothing the bottom of a groove, mortice, or whatever, which is lower than the general surface of the piece being worked. They were very popular tools, especially with patternmakers and stairbuilders. Every shop should have one.

The rod is then positioned to the desired depth relative to the sole of the main casting and the screw of the shoe is tightened onto the rod. As the cuts are made, the rod will slip down toward the casting until the shoe stops it from moving downward anymore.

Once the shoe makes contact with the arched portion of the main casting, the desired depth has been reached. Pretty simple, eh? Next, ina vernier cutter adjustment mechanism was added to the grooved post; the cutters were redesigned to have a notch at their top to engage a wheel, which traverses a threaded rod to regulate the cutter's depth.

This vernier adjustment made it possible to make fine advances in the cutter's set than is normally made when done manually. The feature makes it possible to advance the cutter in successive fine increments as the recess is cut deeper and deeper; i. This procedure is repeated over and over until the desired depth is reached. Incountersunk from above screw holes, through the sole, were added to allow wood bottoms or fences to be attached.

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This allows the tools to work recesses that are larger than the tool is wide. In other words, the tool can be made physically 'larger' by attaching a wooden sole to it. In the same year,the shoe to close the throat was redesigned and repositioned so that it became part of the arched portion of the main casting. During this redesign, the depth gauge rod was repositioned, and in fact, the shoe attaches directly to the rod. An adjustable fence, which is screwed to the sole, was added in It is fastened to the underside of the tool's sole by means of a single screw and washer, both of which are often missing.

Two small screw holes that flank a larger screw hole on either side of the cutter indicate whether your version originally came equipped with the fence.

How to Identify Stanley Hand Plane Age and Type (Type Study Tool)

The sole is also grooved to receive the fence. The fence is used for the times when the cutter is run parallel to an edge. The fence has a straight edge for straight work, and the other side is curved to allow the tool to follow either concave or convex edges.

As is the case with many Stanley planes, the first models were japanned. The earlier models have maple handles that are finished with a clear varnish. Toward the close of the last century, they became nickel plated.

This plane follows that same course. The later models have hardwood knobs that are painted black, while even later models have composition or plastic knobs. The plane is still being made in England, but its quality pales in comparison to the older American versions. You'll also see many of these planes cast in brass.

Stanley never made them in this metal.

Stanley Plane Identification: How to Identify Antique Stanley Bailey Hand Plane Age and Type? By Joshua T. Farnsworth. Below you will find a tool for Stanley plane identification, specifically dating Stanley planes and identifying the type of your Stanley Bailey woodworking bench hand planes. Ask users of Stanley hand planes which type is the best to use on the bench and you will likely spark up an interesting discussion by Pat Thomas (First posted by This is the first in a series of articles, published in no particular order over the next several . May 29,   The Stanley #78 is a plane I have kept turning to for 50 years because of its versatility, compactness and reliable neatness. As with all planes it has unique nuances everyone should learn of but let's discuss the plane in general first. The filletster plane is .

The source of these brass planes is from the many patternmakers who made copies of ones they borrowed. It is an easy plane to make, and with it being particularly useful in the patternmaking trade, it was inevitable that enterprising patternmakers would 'roll their own' and save themselves some dinero. Good old Stanley, coming up with a new model number to designate a plane that was born after the redesign of the This plane is nothing but the first model version of the 71!

It has a closed throat; i. It did follow the same evolution of features, except for the throat adjusting mechanism, as found on the It was a less expensive version of the One might wonder why Stanley chose to manufacture the two different models of the routers, which only differ in the portion of the sole ahead of the cutter.

Stanley claimed that the open throat of the 71 allows for easier passage of the shaving, and that it's easier for the worker to view the cutter's edge as the tool is being worked. However, there are some applications where the open throat design proved difficult to use, such as grooving a narrow piece of work, in which case the more sole that makes contact with the wood, the easier it is to control the tool's lateral stability.

Even today, they are tougher to sell to users, who prefer all the bells and whistles that the 71 offers. This plane is used to chamfer the edges of stock, although it can't do stopped chamfers all that well. The plane has an inverted V-shaped sole, with each "leg" of the V serving as a guide while the plane is worked.

Located toward the front of the plane is an inclined area onto which an adjustable sole section is secured; the mating surface between the main casting and the adjustable sole is a broad tongue and groove joint, with the adjustable sole part carrying the tongue. The adjustable portion of the sole carries the cutter, and can be raised or lowered to decrease or increase, respectively, the width of the chamfer.

With the sole positioned in its lowermost position, the plane can function as a smoother. A brass five-spoked adjusting wheel later examples have a nickel plated adjusting wheel is used to secure the sole in the desired position. It can strip out from repeated hard use, so it's worth checking that. A small washer, usually long lost, fits below the spoked adjusting wheel.

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A typical rosewood tote and knob, like those found on the bench planes the 3 's are the exact sizeare used to push the plane. The cutter is single it has no cap iron. The plane's original cutter is sometimes lost, and replaced with one from a common block plane. Remove the lever cap and inspect the backside of the blade; an original cutter will not have a series of grooves, like those of a block plane, machined into it.

A bullnose sole, which is usually long-lost, was added in to help the plane cut stopped chamfers you still have to work the stopped areas by hand, however, since there is an amount of sole ahead of the iron. The image below shows the plane with the bull nose section. The planes do not use a cammed lever cap like those on the common bench planes.

Instead, the lever cap is a japanned cast iron piece that is activated by thumb screw. The earlier models, such as that in the image, use the same japanned thumb screw that's common to specialty planes of the same vintage such as the The latest models have the nickel plated flat thumb screws with the fine knurling about the circumference.

The earlier models will have a beaded knob and the patent date cast into the right side of the plane. Curiously, many of the planes can be found with holes drilled into the main casting from both sides. Guys would fit a piece of wood or metal into the V portion of the sole so that the plane has a sole like a common smoothing plane; i.

It might seem odd that this filler would be inserted into the sole, but it was done so that the plane would cut along the edge of stock.

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Were the plane not retrofitted with this filler, only the plane's toe would be the flat bearing surface of the tool, which is far too little an area when planing an edge, an edge normally narrower than the width of the plane's iron; i. This plane is identical to the 72except that it has an additional attachment for molding the chamfers.

The attachment could be bought separately, but it seems that not too many guys bought them as they aren't that numerous. They are a real pain in the arse to use, even though they are supposed to function just like the 69 does.

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This attachment is secured to the plane like the other soles are with the spoked wheel that tightens it to the plane's main casting. The attachment has a two-piece cast iron construction, where the lower piece the one that carries the cutter slips under the upper piece the one that carries the spoked wheel.

The two pieces are held together with a screw that has a knurled adjusting 'nut' midway along the screw.

If you have a Stanley bench plane and you want to know roughly when it was made, you've come to the right place. Otherwise perhaps you'd be happier elsewhere. How to use this page Start by reading Patrick Leach's comments on Stanley plane dating. Then check out the Plane Dating Flowchart. The Stanley no. 78 has been an extremely popular model of plane from the Stanley range of tools for over years now. The plane has been an essential part of carpenters, joiners and cabinet makers toolkit. The plane is still in manufacture today by Stanley. Stanley Bailey Plane Kits Frogs Screws Thumb. MORE STANLEY SITES.

This screw allows the lower section to be raised or lowered relative to the upper piece so that the depth of cut can be regulated. The cutters supplied with the attachment are identical to those supplied with the The cutters scrape a bead, reed, or flute on a flat chamfer after that is cut by the plane using one of the normal soles. The plane itself is marked 72 but the beading attachment has no markings, save for the patent dates that are normally found stamped into the blade securing nut.

This nut, originally brass and slotted, was later made as a nickel plated thumb screw. The cutter is held in place with a staple like cast clamping piece. If this clamping piece is broken or missing, good luck trying to make it look original.

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The plane is very seldom found with all its parts bull nose, regular sole, and beading attachment. If you're a collector, buying just the molding attachment alone, with its cutters, can set you back a few bucks.

Stanley 78 dating

The earliest models have polished brass on all but the two cast iron pieces, but the later ones are finished with nickel plating. Check that the adjusting wheel isn't stripped.

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Also check the lower piece where the adjusting screw engages as it buttresses the cutter's carrier. This area is rather small and somewhat fragile and can crack. Don't think many of us are gonna be using this one. It was designed to plane broad wooden surfaces such as bowling alleys, ship decks, floors, or whatever. This is Stanley's only plane that is used not on a bench in the standing position - a long handle is used to push the plane. It's also one of the most difficult planes to find in original condition; for example, it's far easier to find a or than it is to find one of these in minty unmodified condition with the original handle.

The plane has a 45" long turned round handle that slips into a pivotting hollowed receiver that's attached on the main casting, below the blade. On the handle are two maple or beech totes. Each of these totes sit atop a nickeled casting to provide a flat base. The casting has a hole through so that a forging can pass through it; the lower end of the forging is looped to slip over the handle and the upper end is threaded to receive the brass tote nut.

The totes themselves are rather primitive looking things floor planing is a rather oafish job afterall and there's really no need to provide a Mercedes when a Yugo will do with a mostly 'vertical' profile. They don't have pronounced horns like those used on the bench planes. Some users removed the horns altogether so that they could butt the totes in the palms of their hands rather than wrap their hands around them.

The totes can be positioned anywhere along the length of the handle and anywhere around the handle. The brass tote nut is loosened with a screwdriver, which then allows the handle to be rotated or moved along the handle. When tightened, the brass nut draws the looped end of the forging upward against the wooden handle to secure it in the desired position.

Many of the brass nuts are munged from use. Many of the totes are also damaged, more often than not cracked, from use. Some guys shim the tote nut with washers in the tote's countersunk cavity so that the tote nut stands proud of the top of the tote. Most of the planes are found without the handle. It's a good bet that guys found them better for staking tomatos than for floor planing. Most of the handles found on the planes are latter day reproductions.

A missing handle seriously devalues the collectibility and that's all the plane is good for, right? The main casting is just the on tool sterrhoids, but with the aforementioned pivotting receiver. The receiver is secuted to the main casting with a rod that screw through the cheeks of the plane the rod is slotted on the left side.

Sanford Levy >Hi, I have bought a few Stanley bench planes, often on , and seem to be able to figure out pretty well how to date them using the flow chart everyone uses for Stanley's. But what about Stanley 78's? I know they still (still?) make them and do not want to end up with a.

Check that the receiver isn't damaged where it pivots about the rod - it can crack or break out there. A double iron is used in this tool.

The iron is the same as that used on the 8 sized bench planes, but the cap iron is unique to the plane as it isn't cut out to accept an adjusting fork; the iron is adjusted manually.

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If you need a cap iron, good luck finding it as this is the only Stanley plane that was equipped with such a cap iron. In fact, the only part you can snarf from this plane to use on others is the iron. But, you'd be foolish to do that, so don't. The iron rests upon two sloping projections that arise from the main casting. These projections are milled so that they are coplanar.

The iron is held in place with a simple lever cap; the lever cap is oversized and has a notch cast on its front so that it can slip under and engage another rod screwed through the cheeks when the lever cap screw is turned. The earlier models of the plane have the patent date, "PAT. The plane is sometimes found modified. As mentioned earlier, the totes are reshaped.

The plane can also be found with the sides of the sole chamfered to reduce the surface area in an attempt to cut down friction. Sometimes wooden soles are screwed to the main casting.

The most common modification is the handle receive is drilled to accept a screw so that the handle can be secured to the plane. It seems Stanley forgot this important feature.

Some guys also bend the heel of the iron upward to allow for a greater range of movement on the handle receiver. Being 6' 3" tall, I can't find a position of the totes to make for a comfortable grip. One would likely be bent over somewhat to use this thing and I suspect workmen's compensation would go bankrupt if there ever were a wave of floor planing with this thing.

Stanley N o 78 Duplex, Rabbet & Fillester Plane 5 Backside of Stanley N o 78 Rebate Plane Showing Cutter Adjustment and Bodmer's 6/7/ Patent Date 5 Catalog Image of Stanley N o 78 2 Catalog Image of Stanley N o 78 Showing Notched TM on Handle 4 Catalog Image of Stanley N o 78 Showing Fish-scale Handle Pattern 3 Catalog Image of Stanley N o 78 Showing Cutter . #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane, 8 1/2"L (8 1/4", on), 1 1/2"W, 3lbs, This is another popular Stanley plane, on which the company built a great fortune. Nearly every workman of the time had one of these planes in their kits. Stanley 78 W weather stripping plane aka door rabbet plane. offered - 8 1/2" long with 1 1/2" cutter. Uses the 78 frame with 78 markings - no W! Only difference is a steel runner that can be attached to the centre of the sole, acting as a gauge to cut weather strip rebates on both sides.

Have pity on those old hunchbacks you see lurking around your local Acme Bowling Lanes for they probably suffered these planes during their youth. Lucky for us floor sandahs was invented, hunh?

How to turn a No.78 into a Scrub Plane - Paul Sellers

This is a cheap, little rabbet plane, that is very useful in the shop. It has a top section that arches forward of the blade to form the front portion of the sole. This section is adjustable, forward and backward, to regulate its mouth.

This is done by means of a simple screw, which is threaded to lower section, the rear portion of the sole, of the plane. A washer sits under the screw, with the earlier examples having a brass washer.

The plane does not have its number cast into it. The lower portion of the plane's sides is machined, with the rest above the machined area japanned. The lever cap has a thumb screw to hold it and the iron in place earlier examples will have a slotted screw. There are two lugs cast into the top section under which the lever cap fits.

Sometimes the lever cap is snapped and repaired. Original depth stop and fence have to be aluminium.

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Years ago you could get very good replacements, my guess is that time has turned those into originals, too! Uses the 78 frame with 78 markings - no W! I have sold one with the original runner and several with home made attachments. Beware of custom made additions, some are very well made.

Notify of. Callie van der Merwe. Vote Up 25 0 Vote Down Reply. Vote Up 0 0 Vote Down Reply. Vote Up 5 0 Vote Down Reply. Vote Up 1 0 Vote Down Reply. Are you able to help me identify my plane.

All i can workout it is a bailey no4 sweetheart. Would the same type identification process work for the corrugated versions? Joshua Farnsworth. Jesse Kossman. Joe Vona. Vote Up 1 -3 Vote Down Reply. Jeremy Lay.

maybe, were mistaken?

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  1. Faegul

    In it something is. I agree with you, thanks for the help in this question. As always all ingenious is simple.

  2. Jull

    It agree, it is an excellent variant


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